TOPIC: Another half pound planted this morning...

I am planting some in a new hollow here on my place this year. Up towards the head of the hollow the tree mix is about 1/2 oak, but then the other half is split between poplar and hickory.

The hillside faces mostly north to north-east and has some MHF and bainberry growing on it.

Here is what the hillside looks like.

I have decided to do most of my planting low on the hill, using the bottom 1/4 or so. After I get all of that planted I may go higher up on the hill. This past years extreme heat and dry during July and August showed that first year seedlings will survive longer down lower on the hill if you do happen to have such conditions that first growing year.

TNhunter

I planted several strips along that lower part of the hill using my double rake and scatter method.

Even though it has not rained in several days now the soil is still fairly most under the leaves down low on the hill.

I put quite a bit of that top soil and leaf mulch back on top of the seeds once cast, so they should be in good shape.

TNhunter

If any of you folks are looking for a good rake...

I got this one at Lowe's last year and have been very happy with it.

It is 3' wide, and stout, and has pointed teeth that really dig in good.

Comes with a 25 year warranty too !

Can't imagine it lasting 25 years the way I have been working it though

TNhunter

That is a nice stout looking rake. Your slope is about what I have. Looks good, TNHunter!

That's some nice lookin' soil TN.

I bought one of those same rakes after watching your YouTube Video about your double rake and scatter method. I am much pleased with that rake. It moves a lot of material in short order.

Bill

More questions on soil quality. I purchased a cheap soil tester kit. As before my soil's ph was around 7. The bad news the Nitrogen, Phosphorous and Potash all rated a \"very low\". The woods is mostly oak, cherry and hickory. I did notice the difference in the bed locations that one side of the woods was a more light sandy color that the other. I took your advise and did add gympsum to the beds after testing. Our soil is consider sand. I did scatter seeds on top then decided to go back and plant the next day. I watered the beds a couple of times but some of the seeds where dried white before I got them planted. What are their chances?? If you put alot into the soil is the roots still considered wild?

I watered the beds a couple of times but some of the seeds where dried white before I got them planted. What are their chances?? If you put alot into the soil is the roots still considered wild?

There has been some experimentation with seed and it has shown that ginseng seed can be completely healthy much drier than we previously had believed. When one considers that water is a major cause of disease in ginseng, it makes some sense. The key is to not let them dry out completely on the inside...the outside doesn't matter. I know seed dry enough to float will still be viable at times. (not generally, and not after hydration, however)

Your second question depends on a couple perspectives -legally and dealer's perspective. Check your local laws and see what mention if any they have of woodsgrown or 'cultivated' ginseng. In Ohio, any common agricultural practice brings your ginseng under the label of 'cultivated' by law. However, woodsgrown that isn't grown too fast and looks, smells, and tastes like wild, sells as wild as long as it is old enough (ten years or so). You will be very hard pressed to tell my woodsgrown roots from truly discovered wild ginseng after their third year.

One practice that I have always recommended with wild sim plantings, is to go back in every couple years and seed again. This isn't a good idea with the rake and scatter method, but with a seeder like mine or the shovel method TNhunter uses it is. This way, when you start to dig your mature roots, there will be different age classes in the patch and they will appear to be a more truly wild lot. I'm not suggesting you dig the small stuff, but some dealers will pay considerably less if they suspect your sang is woodsgrown because the necks are all the same size.

Some of my pickiest buyers don't mind woodsgrown as long as it is at least ten years old with the necks to show it and have the character of more wild roots.

Castle,
I totally agree on the 10 year old roots and what I do is as soon as the plants start producing berries is plant them back close to the parent plant.

rootman

Delta Dawn.

My plans are to plant the seeds well and then for the most part just let them grow as wild seng would.

I have some planted in a hollow where the calcium levels are in the 1400 ppa range and there I am supplementing with gypsum.

I have others planted on hillsides where wild seng grows and does well and there I am doing nothing but getting the seed in the ground and will let it grow exactly like the wild does.

In the end, I will be selling all of this as wild and expect it to look just like wild (heck it really will be that).

I will not spray any kind of chemical fungicides, pesticides or fertilizers.

And I will only use organic helpers like gypsum, bonemeal, epson salt, or organic fungicide like Actinovate or Plant Helper if absolutely necessary and as sparingly as possible.

I also will not cultivate my soil, no more than 1\" deep and that will be to get the seeds under some dirt and from there they will have to make their own way into the rocky, hard soil - and that is what will make them turn out looking just like wild.

Good Luck to You !

TNhunter

\"And I will only use organic helpers like gypsum, bonemeal, epson salt, or organic fungicide like Actinovate or Plant Helper if absolutely necessary and as sparingly as possible.\"

TN,

How is this done in a growing patch?

What I mean in that question is this:

Let's assume that one has an established patch growing, and it is in its 2nd or 3rd year. ... (I am not at that point yet, but just asking) ... Lets further assume that a soil test in that spot is taken at that time, and shows the need for amendment(s). ... My guess is that one would wait until the plants go dormant, (or perhaps a month or so before emergence) then rake lightly, hand cast the ammendment(s), and then lightly mulch and rake back over. ... Now in the last 2 or 3 years before harvest, I wouldn't think that one would add anything.

Does that sound like a reasonable plan?

At no time would I be treating anything with fungicides. Just treating the soil of the ongoing survivors.

Thanks,

Bill