TOPIC: Boxed Bed Soil Question

Growers all,

I did not wish to hijack Redemption's thread as to his boxed bed. So anyway, here is my project/question:

I plan on making a boxed bed for mature root planting next year; in order to gain a 2013 seed harvest. I have the location, construction, drainage, mulching, and plant protection issues figured out, but I need some input as to what you experienced growers would suggest as to the best/easiest soil preparation.

Inside the boxed bed, (mine will be 5' X 10' using 2' X 10\" boards) is it best to mix up your own soil for the growing medium? ... ie: basically topsoil + soil test + amendments/adjuncts (if needed)? ... Or, 1n a nutshell, what would be a good formula for a soil mix?

I really don't think its best in my situation (per my recent thread on soil amendments) to dig and sift my own soil for the filling. I am in no way \"well to do\", but I would rather feel that I did it the best way, other than worry about added expense. I am thinking, it would be best to make my own soil. Am I on the right track?

All thoughts and suggestions are much appreciated.

Bill

Bill,

This may not be possible for you but this is what I did last year when making my seed producing bed.

I used the woods soil that was available and there was some maidenhair fern and bainberry growing there (but not big and lush looking) so I thought it was at least fair soil for seng but not perfect.

I had not done a soil test at that point and when I did and got the results back I found that it was low on calcium and phosphorus (lower than ideal for seng).

I actually drove down to one of the best seng locations that I know of and not too far from the road I found a good patch of 4 and 3 prongs the previous year growing just out from under a rockey place where the soil was rock chip filled.

I took my grub hoe and shovel and collected 6 (5 gal) buckets of that rock chipped filled soil and I put it on top of my seed bed (raised bed in the woods) and worked it into the top 3-4\" of soil.

I also added some bonemeal, gypsum and epson salt and worked that in and then watered it in good.

I also put on top of that 100 lbs of garden magic peat (composted reed sledge peet).

I also cut strips of drywall (gypsum board) 3\" x 4' and laid them across the bed leaving room for my roots to be planted. The Guysum board will break down slow over time releasing gypsum (calcium) into the soil.

I had several drywall boards left over in storage from when we built our Home in 2001.

My seed producing bed was 4 x 14 (56 sq ft). I put 44 nice roots in there.

I put more gypsum on it this spring, around March 1 - just a few weeks before tops started emerging.

I think your absolute best bet would be to get some dirt from the woods, in an area where you find ginseng growing, or at least good companion plant like maidenhair fern.

Below is a pic of what mine looked like after I had put everything in the soil and the gypsum board on top. The sticks were to keep the board from washing down the hill.

I also put a wire fence all around it (before I got that up, there were both deer and turkey tracks in my bed).

TNhunter

Here is another of after I had put that composted peet on top.

I posted on this issue recently here www.emeraldcastlefarms.com/forum/index.p...0.msg244.html#msg244

\"Just to follow up on the original question...

I just put in two raised beds last week. This time, I used 2x8x12' and made them four feed wide. I started with one ton of coarse sand in the bed of my pickup. I then added six large bales of Canadian peat and five normal size bags of shredded hardwood mulch. I mixed this in the back of the pickup with a Mantis tiller. (P90X has nothing on this!) Then, amazingly, it came out to be just right to fill the two new beds.

This makes almost 100 square feet of planting space. So, for about 64 cubic feet (or about 2.3 cubic yards) I had about $60 in lumber and about $100 in soil mix.\"

Obviously, you will want to proportion your materials for the bed you have. You will need about 42 cubic feet of mix. So, I would start with 2/3 ton of sand, 4 large bales of Canadian peat, and 4 bags of shredded hardwood mulch. Mix and enjoy!

Here is what it looked like on June 24 this year.

TNhunter

Thanks for those suggestions fellas.

TN,

That sure looks nice, both before and after.

If I dig my soil, I will have to transport it in from a good 'sang area like you did, as my boxed bed will be located in the same area that I had asked about in a most recent \"soil amendments\" thread here. As you probably recall, that soil needs a lot of help, and will remain uncertain for at least 1 1/2 - 2 years.

I took special note of your brand of peat.

My wildlife protection will be arranged much like yours is there.

That was a really good answer, and I am saving your response. Thanks!

Brad,

Another great suggestion! (Why do I like this site!)

Indeed, I am planning to use the coarse sand, both as a partial filler, and for its drainage properties. In addition, my boxed bed will be arranged on a gentle slope for moderate and hopefully consistant drainage.

I have plenty of hardwood mulch (via my chipper/shredder) and more than plenty of dead dried limbs (mostly maple) to make more. I also will be making lots of shredded maple leaves soon.

So, you used no soil whatsoever? Just the Canadian peat and mulch mix? That would never have occured to me. How does it test out for Ph, etc.?

I can visualize your Mantis doing a number on that mix! ...

Thanks Brad.

Bill

Hey Bill,

Yes, the Mantis is almost invaluable. I mixed one truck load last fall by hand with a shovel....never again.

The last time I tested that mix it was about 6.4 with a handheld pH meter.

The good thing about this is that you start with NO disease already in the soil. There might be some fungi in the mulch, but it will show up soon enough anyway. I've found that less sand makes for a happier plant. But, that mix I quoted came out really well. One of the things I like about raised beds is that when (not if) serious disease issues happen, you can empty the beds, disinfect them, and fill them fresh and start over.

With no soil in the mix, you can add what nutrients you want, calium etc.

I do have some pictures on bed construction at my site.

Thanks for the info Brad. And yes, I check that out on your site.

This is a quote from NC Ginseng and Goldenseal Co. below, owned by Robert and they are organic. See below for raised or boxed beds not grown in the woods.


Checking Soil Requirements

Ginseng, Goldenseal and other medicinal plants require a well-drained soil, which means a steep to moderate slope. Too much standing water will generate diseases and cause the roots to rot. Creating terraces by taking downed lumber and putting it on the up-hill side will create a flatter area to plant but will not cause the water to stand. These terraces are desirable for keeping the newly created soil from eroding.

One of the most important elements for good ginseng and goldenseal growth is the soil. Soil testing is essential. I consider myself a convert of Dr. Elaine Ingham from Oregon State University, author of the Soil Foods Web concept ( www.soilfoodweb.com ).

To simplify here, soil mixture requireed for growing healthy plants in the woods and soil mixutre for gorwing in the sun are different. The two elements of the soil mixture needed are fungi and bacteria.

For growing in wooded areas you will need to make a soil amendment that provides a ratio of 75% composted pine bark mulch, and 25% composted bacteria (which can be horse, chicken, turkey manure, veggie compost or worm castings).

For growing medicinial plants in sunny gardens, the soil mixture meeds to be the reverse, i.e. 25% fungi and 75% bacteria composted materials. This will give you a dark, moist medium in which to plant the seeds or roots.

www.ncgoldenseal.com/info/soil.html

Thanks,
Latt

Latt,

Thanks for this article, and and eye opening \"call\" (for me) for bacteria/fungi.

I think I have the drainage situation worked out, as I will set the boxed bed lengthwise, in line with the slope; such that it would have the same degree of slope as the overall lay of the surrounding ground. Also, the bottom of the box will have drainage media worked in, with a subtle run-off at the bottom edge.

This boxed bed will be located right in the same woodlot as my raked and seeded beds.

Thanks,

Bill